Generally, if I’m at Granville Island and I’m thinking fish n chips, I make a bee-line for Go Fish Emporium by the wharf. But on this occasion, I decided to try Tony’s Fish & Oyster Cafe on Anderson Street, by the Theatre Sports auditorium. This place has been on Granville Island for a long time, but I hadn’t patronized it in probably six or seven years. I’m sure the ownership has turned over several times since. It appears to have undergone a reno or two in the interim as well. It was a full house upon arrival (midday on a weekend), and I had to wait 5 minutes for a seat at the bench.
The menu looks more or less the same. Fish & chips, clam chowder, fried oysters, mussels & fries, calamari.
I went with the classic 2 piece cod & chips.
So this is two cod fillets, dipped in batter and deep-fried to crunch, served over a mound of crispy hand cut fried potatoes. It comes with a side of cole-slaw and a cup of tartar sauce. The fish is fresh, and the batter is airy and very crunchy indeed, one of the crunchiest I’ve ever had. I’m pretty sure this is a rice flour (or a rice flour blend). But it is a little light on seasoning, the batter could use some more salt. Likewise, the fried potatoes are crispy (some bordering on crunchy) and a little light on seasoning. At least each table has a small condiment tray that includes salt, pepper, malt vinegar and ketchup. Because the fried potatoes and fish were served in a wax paper lined straw basket, the wax paper doesn’t absorb oil, so a thin pool of oil formed on the bottom.
The cole-slaw was pretty good, consisting of shredded green and purple cabbage, slivered carrots It was fresh, and probably more sweet than tangy.
The tartar sauce was okay…. not sure, but I don’t think it was house made, it tasted industrial.
Tony’s is a small place, probably seats about 25. The decor is pretty simple and rustic, and a little cramped.
My server was pleasant helpful and prompt.