Restaurant review: Yew Seafood Bar at the Four Seasons Hotel

I picked up a groupon-type deal for a lobster meal at Ned Bell’s Yew Seafood Restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel.

We made reservations on a weeknight and when we arrived, we were immediately escorted to our table.
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As this was a coupon-purchased meal, it featured a fixed price menu.
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We were also offered the wine men, on an iPad… how high-tech.

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The main dining room is airy and spacious, and while crowded, not particularly noisy.
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We started with complimentary bread, or rather, biscuits.

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These are cheddar and chive biscuits, and smoked salmon biscuits.  They were soft, warm, savoury and delicate.  I liked the mild smokiness of the salmon.

My appetizer was a lobster roll
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This was poached lobster meat a truffle infused mayonnaise, served in a split toasted brioche bun.  This was quite fabulous.  Ordinarily, I’m not a fan of lobster rolls, but perhaps I’ve just had bad lobster rolls in the past.  The lobster meat was cooked just right, the mayo was just lightly infused with a hint of truffle oil, and the brioche bun was lightly toasted on the outside.

My dinner companion ordered the lobster and crab cake
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This was a crab and lobster meat croquette, breaded and deep-fried to a light crisp.  It’s dressed with a chili aioli, and some salad greens.  The crab-lobster cake is all seafood, no fillers at all.  It was lightly crispy on the outside, and properly seasoned and cooked on the inside with lightly sweet crab and lobster meat.   The chili aioli provided a nice spicy element to the dish.  There was supposed to be crispy parmesan on this dish (it said so on the menu) but I didn’t notice it.  Was it part of the breading?

We both had the same main, poached lobster with slow braised short rib.

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This was a vanilla butter poached lobster tail, served on top of a slow braised short rib, with carrot puree and crispy cauliflower and golden raisins.  The lobster tail was properly done with a barely noticeable vanilla flavor (if I wasn’t looking for it, I might not have noticed), but it tasted wonderful.  The short rib was fork tender but still flavorful.  The carrot puree and the raisins provided some sweetness, and the battered deep fried cauliflower provided some crispness.  I really couldn’t taste the cauliflower though, cauliflower is pretty mild, and it was masked by the taste of the batter.

For dessert, my dinner companion chose the chocolate flan
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This was two layers of milk chocolate flan, with a dark chocolate mousse on top, with a layer of white chocolate rice crisps in the middle, served in a mason jar.  In spite of the “mousse” description, it’s not a light airy mousse.  It was actually a little heavy.  But the white chocolate rice crisps provide some nice crunch.  And the dark chocolate flan is rich and intense.

I had the lemon panna cotta
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This was a light lemon panna cotta, filled with lemon curd, and topped with black sesame meringue.  It’s accompanied by a cassis (black currant) sorbet and pumpkin seed and currant granola.   The panna cotta was light and creamy with just a hint of lemon, while the lemon curd was slightly sweet, rich and boldly lemony.  The granola was crispy and provided great crunch.  The cassis sorbet was very tart.

The room, was mentioned was airy and warm and very comfortable.  The fireplaces and the abundant wood add to the atmosphere of warmth.

Our server was excellent.  Pleasant and friendly, attentive and gracious.

This was my second visit to Yew (the previous was several years prior) and I would not hesitate to return.

YEW seafood + bar on Urbanspoon

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