Restaurant review: The One on Kingsway

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So on a quiet weeknight, we decided to stop in at “The One” Taiwanese Restaurant on Kingsway in Burnaby.

This is not to be confused with “The One” in Richmond which is unrelated and is a Hong Kong style cafe.

I’d received a few recommendations for friends and relatives for this place and since we were in the neighborhood, we gave it a try.

It was a full house, and we waited about 15 minutes to be seated.  It was immediately apparent what The One’s appeal is.  It’s giant portions and sky-high drinks.  This is not an exaggeration.  A single entrée sized dish looks to be enough to feed a small family. The bubble teas are huge, and the slush beverages arrive towering about 15 cm above the rim of the glass (and the glasses are plenty tall as is it).  I actually imagine these drinks are meant to be shared, because ordering one and consuming it yourself would take a bottomless pit of a stomach, and a ravenous appetite to deplete it before it melts and falls down on the table top.  But I digress.

Both of us were in the mood for fish, my dinner companion ordered

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the basa filet with chili garlic sauce.  This is a large fillet of basa, battered, breaded and fried to a crunch, topped with a chili garlic sauce, and served with rice and a quartet of side dishes (see below).  The fish was well prepared, with a lightly crunchy breading that was well seasoned.  The chili garlic sauce was quite heavy on the garlic.  I think this is the way it’s supposed to be prepared, but it was a bit much for my liking.

I ordered

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basa filet with curry sauce.  This is a similar fish dish, but instead of chili garlic sauce, it comes with a small gravy boat filled with a mild curry sauce.  Likewise, the fish was well prepared, fried to a light crunch.  The curry sauce had a decent aroma and was appropriately seasoned, but it was very mild (i.e. no heat).

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Both meals came with the same set of cold side dishes.  This included scrambled eggs with corn, pickled veg with a strong dose of sesame oil, slivered pork, tofu and peppers marinated in soy and sesame oil.

Overall, the food is decent, and a very good value.  Although it’s not enough of a stand out to compel me to make a return visit (given that it’s out-of-the-way for me).  I’ll try anything once, but it takes something special for me to make an effort to go back and revisit a place.

The One Restaurant 美味關係 on Urbanspoon

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